Cassie Cartmell – Faodail Creation

Scrapbuster Coaster: Easy and Creative DIY Sewing Project to Use Fabric Scraps

A circular quilted coaster featuring a pink patchwork design with various patterns, including hearts, floral, and animal motifs.

Scrapbuster Coaster Tutorial: Turn Fabric Scraps Into a Beautiful Quilted Coaster

A scrapbuster coaster is one of the easiest and most satisfying sewing projects you can make. If you have a pile of leftover fabric scraps from quilting or sewing projects, this simple tutorial will help you turn them into something useful and beautiful.

This scrapbuster coaster project is perfect for beginners, quilters, and anyone who wants a quick sewing project. The finished coaster is round, quilted, and made using small fabric squares, making it ideal for using up those tiny pieces of fabric that would otherwise go to waste.

Not only is this scrapbuster coaster practical, but it also adds a handmade touch to your home décor. You can customize the colors, patterns, and fabrics to match your kitchen, sewing room, or gift theme.

In this tutorial, you will learn how to sew a scrapbuster coaster step-by-step, including cutting fabric pieces, assembling the quilted block, quilting the layers, and finishing the coaster with a clean envelope backing.

Why Make a Scrapbuster Coaster

A scrapbuster coaster is a fantastic project for many reasons.

First, it helps reduce fabric waste. Many quilters and sewers accumulate small leftover pieces of fabric that are too small for larger projects. This coaster project is specifically designed to use those scraps.

Second, the scrapbuster coaster is quick to sew. You can easily complete one in less than an hour, making it a great project when you want something fun and relaxing to sew.

Third, this project is beginner-friendly. If you have never sewn a quilt block before, this tutorial is a great place to start. The simple grid layout makes it easy to practice basic quilting skills.

Finally, a scrapbuster coaster makes a thoughtful handmade gift. You can create sets of coasters using coordinating fabrics for birthdays, holidays, or housewarming gifts.

Materials Needed for a Scrapbuster Coaster

Before you begin sewing your scrapbuster coaster, gather the following materials.

Fabric Pieces

25 fabric squares measuring 2 inches by 2 inches
12 solid squares
13 patterned squares

You can mix and match fabrics however you like, but alternating solid and patterned fabrics creates a beautiful checkerboard effect in your scrapbuster coaster.

Backing Fabric

You will need:

Two fabric pieces 8 inches wide by 6 inches tall

These will create the envelope-style backing for the coaster.

Batting

One piece of quilt batting measuring approximately 8 x 8 inches

This layer adds softness and structure to your coaster.

Tools

To make your coaster, you will also need:

Sewing machine
Thread
Pins
Iron
Fabric scissors or rotary cutter
Pinking shears (optional)
Compass
Cardboard for template
Marker or felt tip pen

How to Make a Circle Template for Your Scrapbuster Coaster

Before assembling the coaster, you need a 6-inch circle template.

This template will help you cut the finished coaster into its final shape.

Steps to Create the Template

Take a piece of cardboard.
Use a compass set to 3 inches.
Draw a circle from the center point.
Cut out the circle.

You now have a 6-inch diameter template for your coaster.

Cardboard works best because it is sturdy and easy to trace around later in the project.

Sewing the Fabric Squares for Your Scrapbuster Coaster

The front of the coaster is made from five rows of five squares.

Step 1: Sew the First Row

Take two 2-inch squares and place them right sides together.

Sew them using a ¼-inch seam allowance.

Add the next square to the row and sew again using the same seam allowance.

Continue adding squares until the row contains five squares.

When finished, trim the thread tails and gently finger press the seams.

Step 2: Press the Seams

Pressing is important when making a coaster because it helps reduce bulk.

You can press seams:

Open
Or toward the darker fabric

For small projects like this, pressing seams open works well and keeps the coaster flat.

After pressing, the first row of your coaster is complete.

Step 3: Make Five Rows

Repeat the same steps until you have five rows of five squares.

Each row should look like a small quilt strip.

By this stage, you are already creating the quilted top of your coaster.

Joining the Rows for Your Scrapbuster Coaster

Now it’s time to assemble the quilt block.

Step 1: Place Rows Right Sides Together

Take the first two rows and place them right sides together.

Match the seams so the squares align properly.

This is called nesting seams, which helps keep the squares straight.

Step 2: Sew the Rows

Sew along the row using a ¼-inch seam allowance.

After sewing, press the seam open to reduce bulk.

Repeat this process until all five rows are sewn together.

At this point, you have completed the quilt block for your coaster.

Preparing the Envelope Back for the Scrapbuster Coaster

The back of this coaster uses an envelope closure.

This makes the project neat and professional without needing hand sewing.

Step 1: Fold the Edge

Take one backing piece.

Fold one long edge inward ¼ inch and press.

Fold it again ¼ inch and press once more.

Step 2: Stitch the Hem

Sew along the folded edge using a straight stitch.

Repeat this process with the second backing piece.

These finished edges will overlap when assembling the coaster.

Quilting the Scrapbuster Coaster

Now it’s time to quilt the coaster.

Step 1: Add the Batting

Place the batting on the wrong side of the quilt block.

Make sure everything is smooth and flat.

Step 2: Sew Straight Quilting Lines

Increase your stitch length to 3.0 mm.

Follow the seams and sew straight quilting lines across the block.

This quilting step gives the coaster texture and durability.

Cutting the Circle Shape for the Scrapbuster Coaster

Now you will use the circle template you made earlier.

Step 1: Trace the Circle

Place the 6-inch template on the back of the quilted block.

Trace around the circle using a marker.

Step 2: Add the Backing

Place one backing piece on the quilt block.

Then place the second backing piece on top, overlapping the first.

Pin the layers within the circle line.

Step 3: Sew the Circle

Sew directly along the traced circle.

Take your time and sew slowly to maintain the round shape of the coaster.

Trimming and Turning the Scrapbuster Coaster

Once sewn, remove the pins.

Use pinking shears to trim around the circle, leaving about ¼ inch seam allowance.

If you don’t have pinking shears, clip small notches around the curve.

This helps the edges of the coaster lay flat when turned.

Finishing Your Scrapbuster Coaster

Turn the coaster right side out through the envelope opening.

Use your fingers or a chopstick to gently push out the curved edges.

Press the coaster with an iron to give it a smooth, finished look.

Your coaster is now complete.

Scrapbuster Coaster Sewing Tips

Here are a few tips to make your coaster look professional.

Cut Fabric Accurately

Precise cutting ensures your squares line up neatly.

Press Often

Pressing after every step keeps the project flat.

Use Scrap Fabrics Creatively

Mix colors, patterns, and textures to create a unique coaster every time.

Final Thoughts on Making a Scrapbuster Coaster

This coaster is a fun and practical way to use leftover fabric scraps. It’s quick to sew, beginner-friendly, and perfect for practicing quilting skills.

You can make a single scrapbuster coaster or create a whole set for gifts or home décor.

Once you start making these, you may find it hard to stop. They’re addictive, creative, and a great way to keep your scrap fabric stash under control.

Here is the link to the You Tube Tutorial: https://youtu.be/DXsq2DrVQG8?si=UeCPRlgVdlaJNQh-

DIY Sewing Projects

Presser Foot Leveling Button | Baby Lock Soprano

5th March 20269th October 2026 faodailcreationsewingblog

You Tube tutorial video link https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dte1QqsiBck&t=2s

Cassie Cartmell – Baby Lock Educator and Owner of Faodail Creation

Presser foot leveling button, if you’ve ever wondered what that little black button on your sewing machine does, you’re not alone. As a Baby Lock educator, I’m excited to show you exactly how to use the presser foot leveling button and why it’s a game-changer for sewing over thick fabrics. By the end of this post, you’ll know how to make your sewing smoother and more precise using this small but powerful tool.

What is a Presser Foot Leveling Button?

The presser foot leveling button is a feature on many modern sewing machines that allows the presser foot to adjust automatically over layers of fabric. When sewing quilts, multiple layers, or thick materials, the foot can sometimes tilt or slope unevenly. Pressing the presser foot leveling button helps the foot stay level, ensuring even stitching and preventing skipped stitches.

Think of it as a mini magic button for your sewing machine that makes your life so much easier.

How to Use the Presser Foot Leveling Button

Using the presser foot leveling button is surprisingly simple, and once you understand it, you’ll wonder how you ever sewed without it. Here’s a step-by-step guide:

Position Your Fabric – Place your fabric under the presser foot as you normally would. If your fabric has multiple layers or is slightly uneven, the foot may tilt.
Raise the Foot – Lift the presser foot as usual.
Press the Presser Foot Leveling Button – There’s a small black button near the foot. Press it while the foot is slightly elevated. This locks the foot into a level position.
Sew Over Thick Layers – Now you can move the fabric and sew over thicker layers with ease. The presser foot leveling button ensures the foot stays level and adjusts as the fabric thickness changes.
Release and Continue – Once you pass the thicker section, the foot can unclick and return to its standard position, ready for the next part of your project.

Using the leveling button correctly will save you time, frustration, and uneven stitches.

Benefits of the Presser Foot Leveling Button

Here’s why every sewer should know how to use the presser foot leveling button:

Seamless Stitching Across Layers – No more uneven stitches when moving from thin to thick fabrics.
Protects Your Fabric – Prevents the foot from pressing too hard or catching layers.
Saves Time – Reduces the need to manually adjust the foot for every fabric thickness.
Enhances Accuracy – Ensures that your stitches are consistent, giving your projects a professional look.

When you use the leveling button, you’re essentially giving your sewing machine a “smart” ability to handle different fabric heights.

Tips for Maximizing the Presser Foot Leveling Button

Practice on Scrap Fabric – Try pressing the leveling button on some scrap layers first to get comfortable.
Combine with a Walking Foot – For extra thick quilts, using the leveling button along with a walking foot can improve feed and reduce shifting.
Keep Your Machine Clean – Lint buildup can affect how smoothly the foot levels. A clean machine makes the leveling button more responsive.
Observe the Foot – Watch how the foot rises and locks in place when you press the leveling button. This visual understanding helps you anticipate when to use it.

Common Questions About the Presser Foot Leveling Button

Q: Does every sewing machine have a leveling button?
A: No, not all machines include this feature. It’s usually found on modern, computerized sewing machines.

Q: Can I use it on thin fabrics?
A: Yes, but it’s most useful for thick or layered fabrics. For thin fabrics, the effect is minimal but won’t harm your stitches.

Q: Is there a special name for the button?
A: Some manuals refer to it as a “foot lifter” or “foot leveler,” but most experienced sewers simply call it the presser foot leveling button.

Why the Presser Foot Leveling Button is a Game-Changer

Why the Leveling Button is a Game-Changer

Imagine sewing a quilt or multiple layers of fabric without worrying about uneven stitching. The leveling button does exactly that it makes your sewing smoother, faster, and more professional-looking. No more guesswork or frustration when your fabric thickness changes mid-project.

Even small projects like making a pouch or fabric tray benefit from the presser foot leveling button, making every stitch precise and controlled.

Final Thoughts

If you’ve ever been curious about that little black button on your sewing machine, now you know: it’s the leveling button. Learning how to use it properly will elevate your sewing game, reduce mistakes, and save time.

So next time you encounter thick layers or uneven fabric, remember to press the leveling button and let your machine do the hard work for you. Happy sewing!

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Presser Foot Leveling Button | Baby Lock Soprano

Presser Foot Leveling Button | Baby Lock Soprano is a fun way to explore your Soprano.

If you enjoyed Presser Foot Leveling Button | Baby Lock Soprano, you might also like my How to Make a Quilt Label , tutorial using the soprano. Check out Threading Baby Lock Soprano to make sure you are threading your machine correctly

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Sewing

10 steps to Sew a Messenger Bag : The Easiest DIY Bag You’ll Ever Make

4th March 20264th March 2026 faodailcreationsewingblog

Cassie Cartmell – Faodail Creation

10 steps to Sew a Messenger Bag The Easiest DIY Bag You’ll Ever Make

If you’ve ever wanted to sew a messenger bag but didn’t know where to start, this tutorial is perfect for you. In this step-by-step sewing guide, you’ll learn how to create a simple, stylish, and functional cell phone messenger bag using basic materials and easy sewing techniques.

This project is beginner-friendly, fun, and perfect for those quick sewing sessions when you want something practical yet cute. Whether you’re heading out for a walk, running errands, or crafting a handmade gift, this messenger bag is a must-sew!

🧵 What You’ll Need to Sew a Messenger Bag

Before you begin, make sure you have everything ready. Preparation is key when you sew a messenger bag efficiently and smoothly.

Below I have included my Amazon Affiliate links, if you choose to purchase I may receive a small commission at no extra cost to you.

This is my main Amazon store link : https://www.amazon.com/shop/faodailcreation

Materials:

External fabric – Choose a multi-directional print so your pattern looks right-side-up when finished.
Woven Fusible Light weight Interfacing – https://amzn.to/4d212rj
Two 1″ D-rings – https://amzn.to/46DCkK0
Two 1″ lobster clasps – https://amzn.to/4u7naXt
Strap fabric – Matching or contrasting fabric works well!
Snap fastener – To keep your bag securely closed.

Tools:

Iron – https://amzn.to/4b36o3b
Sewing machine (I used the Baby Lock Altair 2)
Rotary cutter – https://amzn.to/3OVRxzZ
wonder clips – https://amzn.to/4aRwI1q
Friction pen – https://amzn.to/40c70OV
Ruler – https://amzn.to/4laWPnh
Ruler for creating curved edges – https://amzn.to/4l5tlqO
Pinking shears (optional) – https://amzn.to/4ligMsr
Snap fastener tool – https://amzn.to/4ligRwf

✂️ Step 1: Prepare Your Fabric and Interfacing to Sew a Messenger Bag

To start, take your external fabric and interfacing. The interfacing has glue on one side it feels slightly rough.

Place the glue side down on the wrong side of your fabric, then press firmly with your iron according to the manufacturer’s instructions. This helps bond the two layers together, giving your bag stability and shape.

💡 Pro Tip: Always use a pressing cloth to protect your fabric and iron from adhesive residue.

Step 2: Create the Loops and Strap

To sew a messenger bag that’s durable and well-structured, you’ll first need to prepare your loops and strap. These pieces are essential for attaching your D-rings and making your adjustable shoulder strap secure.

Fold each fabric strip lengthwise and press.
Open it up, then fold each long edge toward the center crease.
Fold it in half again to enclose all raw edges.
Press well and repeat for both loops and the long strap piece.

This process helps you sew a messenger bag with strong, professional-looking loops and straps that have perfectly clean edges.

For the strap ends, tuck in each short end about ½ inch before pressing this hides the raw edge for a neat finish.

Step 3: Curve the Bag Flap

To give your messenger bag a polished, curved flap:

Place both exterior and lining fabrics right sides together.
Clip or pin them in place.
Using a round ruler or curve template, mark a soft curve at each top corner of the flap.
Cut along those marked lines with scissors or a rotary cutter.

This small touch gives your bag a softer, more professional shape.

Step 4: Sew the Loops and Attach D-Rings

When you sew a messenger bag, the loops and D-rings are essential for holding your strap securely and giving your bag a polished, professional finish.

Start by sewing down the open edge of each loop using a 2.5 stitch length, then sew along the opposite side for symmetry.

Next, insert a D-ring into each loop, fold it in half, and stitch across the folded end this secures the D-ring in place and ensures it can handle daily use when you sew a messenger bag for everyday wear.

🧷 Tip: Sew slowly near metal hardware to avoid damaging your needle.

Step 5: Mark and Attach the Loops

From the bottom edge of the bag (not the flap side), measure 1½ inches up and mark both sides. These marks indicate where your D-ring loops will go.

Place each loop inside the bag layers, facing inward, between right sides of the fabric.
Clip in place.
The D-rings should be facing inside the bag, not sticking out.

Now your loops are correctly positioned for the shoulder strap later.

Step 6: Sew the Bag Body

Now it’s time to sew a messenger bag together and bring all your pieces to life!

Sew all the way around the bag edges, starting just after one side mark, going around the flap, and stopping just before the opposite mark leave a 4-inch opening at the bottom to turn the bag right side out.

Backstitch at both ends for durability to ensure your seams hold strong as you sew a messenger bag that’s meant to last.

After sewing:

Clip around the curved edges using pinking shears to reduce bulk.
Snip corners gently for sharper turns.
Trim extra fabric near the loops to reduce bulk.

Then, turn your bag right side out through the opening. Use a chopstick or blunt tool to push out corners neatly for a crisp, professional finish.

Step 7: Press and Topstitch

Once your bag is turned, press everything flat so seams sit evenly and edges align perfectly. This step helps you achieve a professional finish when you sew a messenger bag and keeps your project looking crisp.

Fold the fabric edges of the bottom opening inward and press again. Then, take it to your sewing machine and topstitch all the way around the bag edge this gives a polished finish and seals the opening shut.

Step 8: Fold and Stitch the Bag Shape

To form the actual messenger bag pocket, fold the bag bottom up 8 inches (not including the flap).

Topstitch along each side seam where the layers overlap. This creates the bag’s main compartment.

Press again to set the folds in place.

Step 9: Add the Snap Fastener

Now it’s time to secure your messenger bag with a snap closure.

Fold the flap down and find its center point mark it.
Measure about 1½ inches from the flap edge and make another mark for the snap placement.
Using your snap fastener tool, install one part of the snap on the flap and the other on the main body of the bag.
Press firmly to lock them in place.

Make sure both parts align perfectly so the bag closes smoothly.

Step 10: Attach the Strap and Lobster Clasps

To complete your project and sew a messenger bag that’s both functional and stylish:

Attach a lobster clasp to one end of the strap, fold the fabric over, and stitch securely.
Repeat on the other side.
Clip both clasps onto the D-rings attached to your bag.
Try the strap on before final stitching to ensure the length suits your height and comfort.

For most people, the strap length will work perfectly but if you’re taller or prefer a longer crossbody fit, simply extend the strap length by 4 inches or adjust the loops slightly.

🌟 Finished Look: A Simple Yet Stylish Messenger Bag

Congratulations you’ve learned how to sew a messenger bag from start to finish!

This compact, hands-free bag is perfect for carrying your cell phone, keys, and wallet while keeping your hands free. The snap closure adds security, and the adjustable strap makes it convenient for walks, shopping, or travel.

If you’re looking to sew a messenger bag that truly reflects your style, you can easily personalize it with a few creative touches:

Adding an interior pocket for extra storage
Using contrasting fabrics for the flap to make it pop
Trying decorative stitching for extra flair

💬 Final Thoughts: Why You’ll Love to Sew a Messenger Bag

Learning how to sew a messenger bag is one of the most rewarding beginner projects you can try. It’s quick, functional, and stylish and once you’ve made one, you’ll want to make several as gifts!

If you enjoyed this sewing tutorial, check out my other step-by-step guides on Faodail Creation you tube channel I have hundreds of sewing videos to help you improve your skills and inspire your next project.

✨ Sew a messenger bag today and enjoy a project that’s both creative and practical!

Link to the you tube tutorial is here : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LqBAIraIVHM

Sewing

How to Sew a Mini Tote Bag : Easy, Adorable & Beginner-Friendly Tutorial

18th February 20269th July 2026 faodailcreationsewingblog

Cassie Cartmell – Faodail Creation

Here is the link to the you tube tutorial https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IrzGmN6UAGs

If you’ve ever wanted to learn how to sew a mini tote bag, this step-by-step guide will walk you through every detail from cutting and pressing your fabric to sewing the straps and boxing the corners. This project is simple enough for beginners and produces a cute, professional-looking bag you’ll love showing off or gifting.

Whether you’re brand new to sewing or looking for a fun weekend project, this tutorial on how to sew a mini tote bag will give you all the tips and confidence you need to create something beautiful.

Let’s dive into how to sew your own adorable mini tote bag with ease and confidence!

What You’ll Need to Sew a Mini Tote Bag

Before starting this tutorial on how to sew a mini tote bag, make sure you have the following materials ready:

The video tutorial below has the sew along!

Exterior fabric (cotton, canvas, or any sturdy fabric)
Lining fabric (lightweight cotton works great)
Interfacing (for structure and stability)
Matching sewing thread (Gütermann all-purpose recommended)
Baby Lock Altair 2 or similar sewing machine
90/14 Microtex sewing needle
Iron and ironing board
Scissors or rotary cutter
Pins or fabric clips
Ruler and fabric marking tool

I recommend the following for this project, they are my amazon affiliate links if you decide to purchase from these links I may receive a small commission :

Gutermann Sew-All Thread https://amzn.to/4qJT2Pa

SCHMETZ Microtex Sharp Sewing Machine Needles https://amzn.to/3OyDy2S

Pellon SF101 Shape-Flex Fusible https://amzn.to/3OmpQjI

Panasonic NI-QL1100L Cordless Steam/Dry Iron https://amzn.to/4706ebp

Fiskars 45mm Rotary Cutter https://amzn.to/46YbAUx

Optional but fun additions:

Leather or faux-leather label for decoration
Double-sided sewing tape
Small piece of hardware or tag that says handmade

Step 1: Preparing the Fabric and Straps – How to Sew a Mini Tote Bag

The first step in learning how to sew a mini tote bag is making the straps. Taking time to press and prepare your straps properly ensures your finished bag looks neat and professional a key part of mastering how to sew a mini tote bag like a pro.

Press the Straps

Take your strap fabric and fold it in half lengthwise.
Use your iron to press the fold neatly. This will give you a clear center line.
Open it back up now you can see that central crease.
Fold each long edge in toward that center line and press again.
Fold it in half once more to hide all raw edges inside and press one last time.

You’ll need two identical straps, so repeat the same process for the second one. Set them aside when done.

Step 2: Add Interfacing to the Lining – How to Sew a Mini Tote Bag

Interfacing helps your bag stand upright and gives it durability. It’s especially important when you’re learning how to sew a mini tote bag that doesn’t collapse easily. Adding the right interfacing makes a big difference in the structure and finish of your project, especially if you want to master how to sew a mini tote bag that looks store-bought.

How to Apply Interfacing

Avoid using quilter’s cotton interfacing here it’s too thick and makes your bag stiff. A medium-weight fusible interfacing works best interfacing here it’s too thick and makes your bag stiff. A medium-weight fusible interfacing works best.

Cut your interfacing to match your lining fabric pieces.

Place the rough, glue side of the interfacing against the wrong side of your lining fabric (the side that won’t show).

Follow the manufacturer’s instructions to press it into place. Typically, hold your iron over each section for a few seconds without sliding.

Step 3: Stitch the Straps – How to Sew a Mini Tote Bag

Now let’s sew the straps so they look neat and professional.

Stitch down one long edge of the strap close to the fold.
Then stitch down the opposite edge to make it symmetrical.
Repeat for the second strap.

When you’re finished, you’ll have two crisp, sturdy straps ready to attach later.

Step 4: Personalize Your Bag – How to Sew a Mini Tote Bag

Before you attach the straps, now’s the perfect time to add your logo or label. Personalizing your project is one of the most enjoyable parts of learning how to sew a mini tote bag, allowing you to make each creation truly your own.

If you have a leather or faux leather tag, you can punch holes in each corner and stitch it securely to the exterior fabric. A small piece of double-sided sewing tape helps hold it in place while you sew.

This extra touch adds a professional finish and shows off your craftsmanship a detail that elevates your project and makes your finished piece stand out when showing others how to sew a mini tote bag with personality and flair!

Step 5: Mark Strap Placement – How to Sew a Mini Tote Bag

Precision matters when learning how to sew a mini tote bag, so take a few minutes to mark your strap placement carefully.

How to Mark Your Strap Position

Fold your exterior fabric in half to find the center.
Line up the fold with a grid or ruler on your cutting mat.
From the center, measure and mark 1¼ inches to the left and right.
These marks indicate where your straps will go.

Line up the ends of your strap with those marks, ensuring both handles are straight and even. Clip them in place.

Step 6: Attach the Straps to the Exterior Fabric

Now you’re ready to stitch your straps in place.

Sew along the existing stitch lines on each strap to attach them securely.
Stop about ½ inch from the top edge you’ll need that space later when sewing the bag together.
Trim away any loose threads for a clean finish.

Repeat for the second strap.

Step 7: Create the Boxed Corners

The secret to making your mini tote bag stand upright is the boxed bottom.

On both the exterior and lining pieces, measure and mark a 1-inch square at the bottom corners.
Cut out those squares.
Make sure your interfacing side faces you when marking on the lining pieces.

Step 8: Sew the Bottom and Side Seams

For the Exterior

Place both exterior pieces right sides together.
Clip or pin the bottom edge.
Sew using a ¼-inch seam allowance.
Press the seam open.

Then, stitch along the two sides — leaving the top edge open.

For the Lining

Place the two lining pieces right sides together.
Sew down each side and along the bottom, leaving a 2–3 inch gap at the center bottom for turning later.
Don’t sew the top edges keep those open.

Step 9: Box the Corners

Now it’s time to make that lovely structured base.

Open up one corner so the side and bottom seams meet.
Match the seams carefully (nest them) so they lie flat.
Stitch straight across to close that boxed corner.
Repeat for all four corners both on the exterior and the lining.

Step 10: Join the Lining and Exterior Together – How to Sew a Mini Tote Bag

This step brings everything together.

Turn your exterior bag right side out.
Keep your lining bag inside out.
Insert the exterior bag into the lining, so the right sides are facing each other.

Align and Pin

Match the side seams carefully.
Clip or pin around the entire top edge.
Tuck the handles completely inside make sure they don’t get caught in the seam!

Step 11: Sew Around the Top Edge

Place the bag in your sewing machine, positioning it so you can see the exterior side while sewing.

Sew all the way around the top edge, about ½ inch from the top. Take your time, readjusting as you go to maintain smooth, even stitches.

Step 12: Turn and Finish

Once stitched, you’re almost done!

Pull the entire bag through the gap in the lining’s bottom seam.
Push out the corners gently using your fingers or a turning tool.
Press everything neatly with your iron.
Stitch the bottom gap in the lining closed you can do this by hand or with your machine.
Push the lining down into the bag and press the top edge again.

Step 13: Topstitch for a Professional Finish – How to Sew a Mini Tote Bag

To give your tote a crisp, polished look:

Topstitch around the upper edge of the bag about ⅛ inch from the top seam.
This helps keep the lining from rolling out and adds a decorative touch.

Step 14: Optional Accessory Loop

If you have leftover strap fabric, you can create a small loop to attach keys or charms. Just fold and stitch a short strip, then sew it inside the bag’s top edge before your final topstitch. It’s an adorable and functional detail!

Step 15: Admire Your Adorable Mini Tote Bag

And that’s it you’ve learned how to sew a mini tote bag from start to finish!

This project is a great scrap buster and makes an ideal gift or personal accessory. Once you make one, you’ll want to create several in different fabrics and patterns.

Bonus Tips for Sewing a Mini Tote Bag

If you’ve enjoyed learning how to sew a mini tote bag, these bonus tips will help you refine your technique and create even more beautiful results. Each small adjustment can make your finished bag look polished and professional, especially as you continue exploring how to sew a mini tote bag with different fabrics and styles.

Press often: Ironing at each stage helps your seams lie flat and your finished bag look professional.
Match threads: Choose a thread that complements your fabric for a clean finish.
Experiment: Try quilting cotton for prints, canvas for durability, or even denim for a trendy look.
Add pockets: Once you’re confident, you can stitch an inside pocket before assembling the lining.
Label it: Don’t forget to add your handmade tag for that personalized touch!

Final Thoughts on How to Sew a Mini Tote Bag

Learning how to sew a mini tote bag is an excellent way to practice your sewing skills and end up with something practical and cute. It’s quick to make, beginner-friendly, and easily customizable.

If you enjoyed this tutorial, check out more sewing and quilting projects on my YouTube channel and don’t forget to like, comment, and subscribe so you won’t miss my next video!

DIY Sewing Projects

Fun & Easy DIY Pen Holder Sewing Tutorial with Faodail Creation

11th February 202613th February 2026 faodailcreationsewingblog

4–5 minutes

If you’ve been looking for a quick and creative project, sewing a pen holder is a fun way to make something practical and stylish. In this beginner-friendly tutorial, Faodail Creation walks you through how to sew a pen holder using just fabric, interfacing, and a key ring no complicated tools required!

This project is ideal for beginners who want to practice basic sewing skills and end up with a beautiful handmade accessory that keeps pens neatly organized.

sewing a pen holder with faodail creation

🧵 Materials You’ll Need for Sewing a Pen Holder

Before we start sewing a pen holder, gather the following materials:

Fabric pieces: 7″ tall × 3½” wide x2
Light interfacing 7″ tall × 3½” wide x2
Fabric Piece Contrast : 9½” tall x 3″ wide
Light interfacing 9½” x 3″ wide
Strap for key ring 4: tall x 2″ wide (no interfacing for strap)
Key ring
Sewing machine
Iron and pressing mat
Wonder clips
Gütermann white thread
90/14 Microtex needle

👉 Tip: Use two matching fabrics for the body and a coordinating one for the strap. The strap does not need interfacing.

🪡 Step 1: Preparing Your Fabric and Interfacing

To start sewing a pen holder, attach your light interfacing to the two main body pieces of fabric.

Lay the fabric with the wrong side up. Find the rough, glue-coated side of your interfacing and place it face down on the fabric. Use your iron to press it into place always follow the manufacturer’s guidelines for heat and pressing time.

Once fused, fold your long fabric piece in half lengthwise and press a crease along the top edge. Set it aside for now.

🎀 Step 2: Creating the Strap Loop

The next step in sewing a pen holder is making the loop that will hold your key ring.

Place your strap fabric right side down. Fold it in half lengthwise and press to create a center crease. Open it, fold each edge to the center line, and press again. Then fold the strip in half one more time and press.

Use Wonder Clips to secure the folds before sewing.

🧷 Step 3: Stitching the Strap

At your sewing machine, use a straight stitch and sew along both long edges of the strap. This secures the folds and gives your strap a clean, finished look.

For this project, Faodail Creation uses the Baby Lock Altair 2 Sewing and Embroidery Machine, with Gütermann white thread and a 90/14 Microtex needle for precision stitching.

🔁 Step 4: Attaching the Strap and Key Ring

Before we continue sewing the pen holder together, slide your key ring onto the strap loop you just made. Fold the strap in half with the key ring at the fold.

Find the center of your main fabric piece by folding it in half and pressing a crease. Place the loop at the top center, aligning raw edges, and sew it in place with a 3.5mm stitch length.

Trim any excess fabric from the strap for a tidy finish.

✂️ Step 5: Sewing the Pen Holder Body

Now that your strap is attached, place the second fabric piece on top, right sides together. Clip around the edges to hold everything in place.

Leave a 3½-inch opening on one side for turning. Sew all around the edges with a ¼-inch seam allowance, backstitching at the start and end to secure your stitches.

This is an important step when sewing a pen holder because it ensures your seams stay strong even after turning the project right side out.

🌸 Step 6: Turning and Pressing

Carefully turn your pen holder right side out through the opening. Use a chopstick or turning tool to push out all corners neatly.

Take your iron and press the entire piece flat, making sure the edges of your opening are folded in evenly. This will make topstitching easier and give your pen holder a professional look.

🧵 Step 7: Finishing Your Pen Holder

The final step in sewing a pen holder is topstitching.

Sew close to the edge all around your project. This step closes the turning gap and strengthens the seams. It also adds a crisp, polished edge that makes your pen holder look store-bought!

Once finished, slide your favorite pen into the holder and you’re done!

✨ Final Thoughts on Sewing a Pen Holder

Sewing a pen holder is one of those projects that’s both quick and satisfying. It’s great for using up fabric scraps and makes an excellent gift or craft fair item. With just one key ring and a bit of fabric, you can create a functional accessory that keeps your pens close at hand.

If you enjoyed this project, check out more beginner-friendly sewing tutorials from Faodail Creation on you tube. Don’t forget to like, comment, and subscribe so you never miss a new sewing idea!

Link to You Tube tutorial: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yEpLnuAW1YE

DIY Sewing Projects

How to sew a Glasses case with snap fasteners with faodail creation

28th January 202610th February 2026 faodailcreationsewingblog

How to sew a Glasses case with snap fasteners Instructions

Looking for a quick and satisfying sewing project? You’re going to love this one! Your journey to learn how to sew a glasses case is just beginning! In today’s tutorial, I’ll show you how to sew a glasses case that’s not only stylish and protective but also incredibly simple to make. This is one of the easiest projects you can sew perfect for beginners or anyone wanting to use up fabric scraps. With just a few materials, you can learn how to sew a glasses case that showcases your creativity!

By the end of this step-by-step guide, you’ll have a lovely DIY glasses case with snap fasteners that keeps your glasses safe and adds a handmade touch to your day.

Before we dive in, remember that learning to sew a glasses case not only provides a functional item but also improves your sewing skills.

🧵 Materials You’ll Need to Sew a Glasses Case

With the right materials in hand, you’re all set to learn how to sew a glasses case that fits your style perfectly.

Before you start sewing your glasses case, gather these materials:

External fabric – 17″ tall x 4½” wide
Lining fabric – same size as the external fabric
Quilter’s batting – 17″ x 4½”
Stabilizer – two 2″ x 2″ squares (light, medium, or heavy weight)
Snap fasteners – one set
Fabric hole punch
Marking pen or chalk
Iron and ironing board
Sewing machine (I used my Baby Lock sewing and embroidery machine)
Scissors or pinking shears
Ruler or curved edge tool

Tip: Choose multi-directional or plain fabric so your design doesn’t appear upside down when folded!

✂️ Step 1: Prepare and Stabilize Your Fabric

To begin sewing your glasses case, first prepare the layers. Lay your quilter’s batting down flat, then place your external fabric right side up on top of it.

Next, place your lining fabric face down on top of that, so the right sides of both fabrics are facing each other. Align all the edges neatly.

Before sewing, find the center point of your fabric by folding it in half and finger-pressing a crease. Make a small mark on both edges to help align the stabilizer later.

Now, take your 2″ x 2″ stabilizer squares and position them ¼ inch below the top edge of each side, sticky side down. Press them in place with an iron. The stabilizer adds extra support where the snap fasteners will go.

🔵 Step 2: Shape the Top Flap

For a professional-looking finish, we’ll curve the top flap of your glasses case.

Use a curved ruler (1½” curve works well) to trace a smooth, rounded line on both top corners of your fabric layers. Clip the layers together so they don’t shift, then cut along the curved lines carefully with sharp scissors.

This small detail makes your finished sewn glasses case look polished and well-designed.

Now that you have everything ready, let’s start to sew a glasses case that is both practical and beautiful!

🪡 Step 3: Sew Around the Edges

Now it’s time to sew your glasses case together.

At your sewing machine, start about 2 inches from the bottom edge on one side this will be your turning gap. Using a straight stitch, sew all the way around the edges with a ¼” seam allowance, stopping when you reach your starting mark.

Remember to reverse stitch at the beginning and end to secure the seam.
Go slowly around the curves and use your pivot function (if available) to keep your stitches smooth and even.

When finished, trim the excess fabric around the curves using pinking shears this helps the fabric turn neatly without bulk. Snip off the corner points (without cutting into the stitches).

🧷 Step 4: Turn the Glasses Case Right Side Out

Through the opening you left, turn your glasses case right sides out. Use a blunt tool like a chopstick or turning stick to gently push out the corners and shape the curves.

Once turned, fold the raw edges of the opening inward and press the entire piece flat with your iron. Take your time pressing — crisp edges make all the difference when you sew a glasses case neatly.

🔁 Step 5: Topstitch for a Professional Finish

Now that your project is pressed flat, return to your sewing machine. Topstith all the way around the outer edge of the case. This not only closes the opening but also gives your case a clean, finished look and extra durability.

Use matching or contrasting thread, depending on the style you want.

🕶 Step 6: Fold and Stitch the Case Body

Next, fold the bottom of your glasses case upward to form the pocket. Place your glasses on top to gauge how much space you’ll need about 7 inches works well for most sizes.

Once you’re happy with the fold, clip or pin the sides in place. Sew a straight stitch along both sides, going over your existing topstitch line to reinforce the seams.

As you press, think about how satisfying it will be to sew a glasses case that not only protects your eyewear but also reflects your personal style.

Press the flap flat once again so it lays smoothly when closed.

This step is crucial as it sets the foundation for how your finished project will look when you sew a glasses case.

As you stitch, envision the completed product that you will be proud to say, I sewed this glasses case!!

💡 Step 7: Add the Snap Fasteners

Now comes the fun part — installing the snap fasteners!

Find the center point of your flap by folding it in half and marking the middle.
Measure about ⅝ inch (1.6 cm) from the edge of the flap and mark the spot.
Use a fabric hole punch to create a small hole on the mark.
Close the flap and use the hole you just made to mark the corresponding point on the body of the case. Punch a second hole there.

Make sure to take your time as you sew a glasses case, ensuring the seams are strong and even.

You’ll need four snap parts in total:

Cap and socket for the flap
Stud and post for the body

Now that the body is complete, let’s finish strong as you sew a glasses case for all to admire!

Attach them using your snap fastener tool:

Place the cap on the outside of the flap, push the prong through the hole, and attach the socket on the inside.
For the body, place the post through the hole from the inside, then add the stud on the outside.
Press each connection firmly with your tool until secure.

So take the plunge, gather your materials and get ready to sew a glasses case that’s all your own!

Snap the flap closed it should click perfectly into place!

🪶 Step 8: Finishing Touches

Give your completed sewn glasses case one last press with the iron. Check that all the seams are neat, the snaps work properly, and the shape looks even.

You can even personalize it by:

Adding a fabric label or tag
Embroidering initials
Using decorative stitching around the edges

And there you have it — a soft, padded glasses case that looks beautiful and functions perfectly.

❤️ Why You’ll Love This Project

When you sew a glasses case yourself, you get more than a simple accessory you get a handmade piece that’s uniquely yours. Here’s why this project is a favorite among beginners:

Quick & Easy: You can finish it in under an hour.
Budget-Friendly: Great for using fabric scraps or leftover batting.
Customizable: Try different fabrics, colors, or fasteners.
Beginner Approved: No complicated steps — just simple sewing!

Whether you’re making one for yourself or as a handmade gift, this sewing project is sure to impress.

📸 Optional: Add Your Own Creative Touch

Want to take your DIY glasses case to the next level? Try these creative variations:

As you complete your project, think about all the times you’ll be able to say, ‘I sew a glasses case’ to friends and family.

Remember, sewing a glasses case isn’t just about the final product; it’s about the joy of creating something yourself.

Quilted version: Add extra stitching lines to the outer fabric before assembling.
Zipper closure: Replace the snap fastener with a small zipper.
Embroidered detail: Add a name or design on the flap.
Felt lining: Use soft felt instead of cotton for a plush finish.

Small touches like these make your project one-of-a-kind!

Exploring options like a zipper will enhance your skills and give you more ways to sew a glasses case in the future. Every time you pull out your glasses, you can feel proud knowing you can sew a glasses case that is uniquely yours!

LINK TOT HE VIDEO TUTORIAL IS HERE : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aMdtd8YmTH4

How to Sew Zipper Pouches

How to Make a Beautiful Card Wallet with Snap Fasteners: A Complete Sewing Tutorial

27th January 20264th October 2026 faodailcreationsewingblog

Cassie Cartmell – Baby Lock Educator

6–9 minutes

How to Make a Card Wallet – Cassie Cartmell Baby Lock Educator

If you’ve ever wanted to create a stylish, functional, and personalized card wallet, this how to make a card wallet tutorial is perfect for you. Card wallets are a great beginner-friendly sewing project that allows you to practice essential skills like sewing curves, working with snap fasteners, and pressing seams. Whether you want a wallet for yourself, a gift for a friend, or a small handmade product to sell, this guide will take you through every step of the process.

In this How to make a card wallet tutorial, we’ll cover: materials, tools, step-by-step sewing instructions, tips for getting perfect curves, adding snap fasteners, finishing techniques, and design variations. By the end of this post, you’ll have a professional-looking card wallet ready to use.

Materials You Will Need for How to make a card wallet

Before you start, it’s important to gather all the materials. Having everything ready will make the process smooth and enjoyable.

Fabrics

You’ll need two main pieces of fabric:

External fabric – This is the visible outer layer of your card wallet. Choose a fabric that is durable and attractive. Canvas, cotton, or quilting fabrics work well.
Internal fabric – This is the lining of your wallet. You can match it with the outer fabric or choose a contrasting color or pattern.

Tip: Use multidirectional fabric for the outer layer so that no part looks upside down when the wallet is folded. Multidirectional fabrics maintain the design’s appearance from any angle.

Stabilizer

Cut a 2-inch by 2-inch square of stabilizer to reinforce the area where you will attach the snap fasteners. This prevents the fabric from tearing over time and ensures your wallet remains sturdy. Fusible stabilizers are recommended for easy application.

Batting

Batting adds padding and structure to your wallet. Cut it to match the size of your fabric pieces. Light to medium-weight batting works best for a card wallet, as it provides stability without being too bulky.

Snap Fasteners

How to Make a Card Wallet: Tips and Tricks

You’ll need a set of snap fasteners for the closure. Each snap consists of a male and female part. You will also need a snap-setting tool to attach them properly.

Sewing Tools for How to make a card wallet

Sewing machine (with quarter-inch foot with guide)
Gutman sewing thread (or any high-quality thread)
9014 Microtex needle (great for precision sewing)
Friction pen for marking
Scissors and pinking shears for trimming
Iron for pressing seams
Chopstick or point turner for shaping corners
Wonder clips for holding fabric in place
Fabric hole punch for snaps

Step 1: Cutting Your Fabric

Start by cutting your fabric to the correct dimensions. The finished card wallet will measure:

External Fabric: 9 inches height by 4 and half inches wide
Internal Fabric 9 inches height by 4 and half inches wide
Batting 9 inches height by 4 and half inches wide

Cut one piece for the external fabric and one for the internal fabric. Cut the batting to match these dimensions, and don’t forget your 2×2 inch stabilizer for the snap fasteners.

Tip: Always double-check your measurements before cutting. A small error in cutting can affect the alignment of your wallet later.

Step 2: Layering Fabric and Batting

Place the fabrics right sides together. Right sides together means the printed or “good” sides of the fabric are facing each other. This ensures that when you turn your wallet right side out, the beautiful side of your fabrics will be visible.
Add the batting. Lay the stacked fabrics on top of the batting. The batting provides a soft structure and makes the wallet feel more substantial.
Mark the center line. Using a friction pen, mark the center of the fabric stack. This helps when you fold the flap later to align the snap fasteners perfectly.
Attach stabilizer. Place the fusible stabilizer on the wrong side of the fabric where the snap fasteners will be attached. About 1/4 inch from the edge is ideal. Clip everything in place with wonder clips.

Pro tip: Using clips instead of pins prevents fabric distortion, especially with thick fabrics or multiple layers.

Step 3: Sewing the Wallet

Start Sewing

Begin sewing around the edges, leaving a 3-inch gap for turning the wallet right side out.
When sewing curves, slow down and guide the fabric gently. This ensures smooth, even stitches.
Reverse stitch at the beginning and end to secure the seams.

Tip: Never start sewing at the corners. Begin along a straight edge and work your way around to maintain perfect corners.

Curving the Top Flap

Decide on the curve for the top flap. I used a 1.5-inch curve on my ruler.
Mark the curve on the wallet fabric and cut carefully with fabric scissors.
Use pinking shears to trim the edges around the curve to reduce bulk and prevent fraying.

Pro tip: For beginner sewers, practice on scrap fabric before cutting the actual wallet.

Step 4: Turning and Pressing

Turn the wallet right side out through the 3-inch gap.
Use a chopstick or point turner to push out the corners for crisp edges.
Press the wallet with an iron, making sure seams lie flat and edges are even.

Tip: Take your time pressing the seams. A well-pressed wallet looks professional and makes the next steps easier.

Step 5: Closing the Gap

Fold the flap to determine where your cards will sit (around 2 3/4 inches from the top).
Clip the flap into place with wonder clips.
Stitch along the edges of the flap, sewing over the previous seam to secure it. Reverse stitch at the beginning and end for durability.

Pro tip: Check that the flap is aligned properly before stitching. Misalignment can make the wallet uneven and affect the snap placement.

Step 6: Attaching Snap Fasteners

Marking Snap Placement

Fold the flap over and press with an iron.
Find the central point of the flap using a friction pen.
Use a fabric hole punch to create small holes for the snap fasteners.

Installing Snaps

Identify the male and female parts of the snap fastener.
Place the external part on the outside of the wallet.
Use your snap-setting tool to secure the snaps. Press firmly to ensure they don’t come loose.

Tip: Double-check the alignment before pressing. Misaligned snaps will make closing the wallet tricky.

Step 7: Finishing Touches

Trim any loose threads.
Press the wallet one last time to ensure a neat finish.
Insert your cards to test the flap and snaps.

Congratulations! You now have a beautiful, functional card wallet made entirely by yourself.

Design Tips and Variations

Fabric choices: Mix and match patterns for a fun, custom look. Canvas is durable, quilting cotton is lightweight, and faux leather adds a professional touch.
Adding pockets: Consider sewing an extra layer inside for coin storage.
Monogramming: Personalize your wallet with embroidered initials for a handmade gift.
Edge finishing: Use decorative stitches for a stylish touch.

Caring for Your Handmade Wallet

Hand wash or spot clean fabrics with mild soap.
Avoid using the wallet roughly to prevent snapping threads.
Store in a dry place to maintain the shape.

Troubleshooting Common Issues

Curved edges not smooth: Practice on scrap fabric or use a curve ruler for accuracy.
Snaps coming loose: Make sure stabilizer is used, and press snaps firmly with the tool.
Uneven seams: Pin or clip layers carefully, and sew slowly, especially around curves.

Conclusion

Making a card wallet with snap fasteners is a fun and practical sewing project suitable for beginners and advanced sewers alike. With careful fabric selection, precise cutting, and proper snap placement, you can create a professional-looking wallet that’s perfect for everyday use or gifting. Take your time, follow the steps carefully, and enjoy the satisfaction of creating something beautiful with your own hands.

Cassie Cartmell Baby Lock Educator

Did you enjoy this tutorial? Don’t forget to like, comment, and subscribe for more sewing tips, tutorials, and DIY projects!

Link for you tube tutorial here

Foundation Pieced Placemat Tutorial by Baby Lock Educator | Faodail Creation

26th January 202627th January 2026 faodailcreationsewingblog

Blog by Cassie Cartmell

Join Baby Lock Educator Faodail Creation to create a beautiful foundation pieced placemat step by step. This beginner-friendly sewing tutorial walks you through the basics of foundation paper piecing, from cutting and stitching to pressing and assembling your finished placemat. By the end, you’ll confidently complete your foundation pieced placemat and learn tips from an experienced Baby Lock Educator.

Creating Your Own Foundation Pieced Placemat

Foundation pieced placemat tutorial by Baby Lock Educator Faodail Creation

Download the pattern from my facebook group here :

https://www.facebook.com/groups/405258636506758

Cutting the foundation paper pieced paper

Then you will carefully cut out each of the foundation paper pieced placemat pattern sections along the outside line. This outside line represents your seam allowance, which gives you extra fabric around each piece for joining the sections together neatly. Take your time with this step, as accurate cutting helps your placemat fit perfectly when all the units are sewn together.

How to Assemble Each Section

I will show the example using Section D Step D unit for foundation pieced placemat so you can clearly see each step of the foundation paper piecing process. The video down below demonstrates the coaster version of this design, but the principles and techniques are exactly the same for this foundation pieced placemat.

The only difference is that the foundation pieced placemat is larger in size and includes a few additional sections to create the full layout. If you follow along with the video and these instructions together, you’ll easily understand how to assemble each piece for a beautifully finished project.

Fold the paper in half between D1 and D2

Choosing and Positioning Fabrics for Your Foundation Pieced Placemat

Get two pieces of fabric one pink and one blue. If you’re new to foundation paper piecing, I highly recommend starting with solid fabrics instead of busy prints. Solids make it easier to see your stitching lines and understand how each section fits together, helping you build confidence before trying patterned fabrics.

Place the pink fabric right sides together with the blue fabric, positioning the pink fabric next to the paper. Remember, the fabrics should sit on the back side of the paper while you sew along the printed lines on the front side. This setup ensures your seams are accurate and your foundation pieced placemat comes together cleanly.

The fabrics need to be overhanging the D1 and D2 line by quarter of an inch

Sew down the line of D1 and D2 cutting away loose threads as we go

Trim up the over hang so its quarter of an inch

Sewing and Pressing Steps for Your Foundation Pieced Placemat

Flip back the blue fabric, finger press or use a seam roller

Now we will work on the next line folding back D2 and D3

Trim the blue fabric to a quarter of an inch from the folded paper

Take a piece of pink fabric and place face down on top of the blue. Turn around and sew along the line between D2 and D3

Open up the pink fabric and finger press

Now we will work on the next line folding back D3 and D4

Trim the Pink fabric to a quarter of an inch from the folded paper

Take a piece of yellow fabric and place face down on top of the pink. Turn around and sew along the line between D3 and D4

Open up the white fabric and finger press

Now we will work on the next line folding back D4 and D7

Trim the white fabric to a quarter of an inch from the folded paper, this is the bottom corner

Take a piece of blue fabric and place face down on top of the white. Turn around and sew along the line between D4 and D7

Open up the white fabric and finger press

If there is too much fabric overhang you can trim it off next to the seam allowance

Now working at the other end fold back D1 and D5

Trim the pink fabric to a quarter of an inch from the folded paper, this is the bottom corner

Take a piece of yellow fabric and place face down on top of the pink. Turn around and sew along the line between D1 and D5

Open up the white fabric and finger press

Now working at the other end fold back D5 and D6

Trim the white fabric to a quarter of an inch from the folded paper, this is the bottom corner again

Take a piece of blue fabric and place face down on top of the white. Turn around and sew along the line between D5 and D6

One foundation pieced unit is complete, you can now go around this section and cut away the excess fabric

Now complete all the other units, don’t forget there is a you tube tutorial below if you need to see every unit being created from start to finish.

First we are going to be working with Sections D E and F

Remove the paper, and sew the ends of F and E to the central unit of D sewing at a quarter of an inch

Stitch the B unit to the top of D, F and E

Stitch the A unit to the bottom of D, F and E

Then sew C to the very bottom

Once the main bunny block is complete sew the 8 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ sections to the top and bottom

The two side panels are 3″ x 12″ sew them on

Use a decorative stitch to attach all the layers

add you binding and now you have a cute little placemat

Disclaimer: The links below are Amazon affiliate links. If you choose to purchase a product or service through one of these links, I may earn a small commission at no additional cost to you. This small contribution helps support my work as a Baby Lock Educator and allows me to keep creating free sewing and quilting tutorials like this foundation pieced placemat guide. Thank you for your support!

Links – Amazon

Seam Roller https://amzn.to/3TD2ari

Thread https://amzn.to/3TBdGUg

Embroidery / Decorative thread https://amzn.to/3VDcdhN

Batting https://amzn.to/3v4tu8F

Foundation Pieced Placemat Tutorial by Baby Lock Educator | Faodail Creation

Embroider on a Towel | Baby Lock Altair – Tutorial by Faodail Creation

Altair 2 embroidery machine tutorial step by step | Easter wall hanging project

Altair 2 embroidery machine tutorial How to Sew an Applique

DIY Sewing Projects

Embroider on a Towel | Baby Lock Altair – Tutorial by Faodail Creation

16th April 20252nd August 2026 faodailcreationsewingblog

This is the link to the full you tube tutorial https://youtu.be/ojPx5PQifPg

Learn how to embroider on a towel | Baby Lock Altair with this easy step-by-step tutorial from Faodail Creation.

This project is perfect for beginners and creates beautiful custom towels for gifts or home décor.

In this guide Embroider on a Towel | Baby Lock Altair, we walk you through stitching a festive Easter design. You’ll learn how to prep your towel, choose the right stabilizers, and use the Baby Lock Altair to stitch like a pro.

This Altair 2 Embroider on a Towel | Baby Lock Altair tutorial is beginner-friendly and fun for all skill levels. Whether you’re just starting out or love sewing and quilting, this project will elevate your machine embroidery skills.

Get tips for hooping towels, aligning your design, and achieving flawless results. We also explain how to combine sewing and embroidery techniques to create professional-looking custom towels.

This video Embroider on a Towel | Baby Lock Altair isn’t just a how-to it’s a complete towel embroidery guide with the Baby Lock Altair. You’ll get step-by-step instructions, expert tips, and ideas for seasonal designs or gifts.

If you’re searching for a towel embroidery tutorial with the Baby Lock Altair, you’re in the right place.

Link to my you tube tutorial : https://youtu.be/trcmr-pLXw0

By the end of this tutorial, you’ll confidently embroider on towels, explore creative designs, and make personalized gifts that everyone will love.

DIY Sewing Projects

Altair 2 embroidery machine tutorial step by step | Easter wall hanging project

15th April 202526th January 2026 faodailcreationsewingblog

Altair 2 embroidery machine tutorial step by step | Easter wall hanging project

Create a beautiful and festive Easter wall hanging with this beginner-friendly Baby Lock Altair 2 embroidery tutorial!

In this step-by-step guide, you’ll learn how to design, embroider, and quilt a stunning seasonal wall décor piece using the powerful IQ Designer on your Altair 2 sewing and embroidery machine.

Whether you’re just getting started with machine embroidery or you’re an experienced quilter looking for a fun holiday project, this Easter embroidery wall hanging is the perfect way to elevate your home décor.

We’ll walk you through every part of the process—from using the Baby Lock IQ Designer for custom embroidery, to fabric selection tips and professional quilting techniques.

By the end of this Easter wall hanging tutorial, you’ll have a completed project that shows off your creativity and skills with the Altair 2 embroidery and sewing machine.

Great for both beginners and advanced sewists!

Recent Instagram Posts

Watch this tutorial on the Baby Lock Altair on how to make this cute keepsake

Free Applique Pattern, check out my you tube channel, link in bio

The Gathering Foot: Your New Sewing Superpower ✨ Baby Lock Educator Cassie Cartmell

✨ Say hello to your new fave tablet sidekick! ✨

🪡✨ When you mix appliqué, free motion stitching, and a touch of sass you get this zipper pouch!

Get ready to stitch up some holiday magic! 🎄✨